Malatan-og Falls (“Cigarette Falls”): An Adventure Guide for Don Salvador Benedicto
Located in the cool, pine-forested highlands of Don Salvador Benedicto, Malatan-og Falls is one of Negros Occidental’s most breathtaking waterfalls. At about 80–100 meters tall, it’s the tallest cascade on Negros. Locals nicknamed it “Cigarette Falls” because from the viewing deck the tall, thin column of water looks like a lit cigarette standing upright. To reach the base of the falls you’ll hike roughly one hour through lush forest – an enchanting trek where you might hear exotic birds and even spot wild monkeys playing among the rocks. On a hot day the plunge pool is ice-cold and crystal-clear, making for a refreshing swim after the climb.
Getting There
By Private Vehicle
From Bacolod City the drive takes roughly 1½–2 hours (about 60–70 km) via the scenic Bacolod–Murcia–Don Salvador Benedicto Road. This highway (often called the “highway of dreams”) winds through pine forests and mountain vistas – Don Salvador Benedicto is even dubbed the “Little Baguio of Negros” for its cool air and tall pines. Watch for signs or use GPS to stay on the main road (Route 69) to Barangay Kumaliskis. Once you reach KM 48, turn toward Malatan-og Falls (there will usually be a sign for the viewing deck). The road into the falls parking/viewpoint area is rough but passable by car. There’s a small parking area at the trailhead and a hut where you register and pay a modest ₱20 donation.
By Public Transport
Ceres buses bound for Don Salvador Benedicto or San Carlos City stop along the main highway. From Bacolod’s south terminal look for the Bacolod–San Carlos route via Kabankalan; many drivers will drop you off at the Malatan-og Falls Viewing Deck. Ask the conductor or driver (“Pang-Malatan-og Falls na po?”) and they will usually let you off at the signboard. The one-way fare is around ₱200+.
If you’re coming from San Carlos City, there are also Ceres buses through DSB where you can alight at the viewing deck. From the viewing deck to the falls base is a foot trail; there’s no regular shuttle, so prepare to hike down (see Tips below).
Where to Stay (Budget to Mid-Range) in Don Salvador Benedicto, Negros Occidental
If you want to linger in the cool mountain air, there are several local lodgings and homestays in DSB:
Cafe La Guada (Brgy. Guada). A roadside restaurant with a view, La Guada also has simple overnight cottages and even a pool. The rooms are basic but the setting is pleasant (amid pine and farm scenery), and the cafe serves homey Filipino dishes at very reasonable prices.
Bello Vue Apartelle (Purok Mabuhay, Pandanon). This cozy new inn (opened 2024) offers family-style units with air-conditioning, private bathroom, and a balcony overlooking the garden and mountain views. There are just a few rooms, so it feels exclusive; rates run around ₱3,000–₱4,000 per night (for 2–4 guests).
Rapha Valley B&B (Km 48, Kumaliskis). For a more “retreat” vibe, Rapha Valley is a farm-hotel with spa and organic restaurant (Km. 48 on the highway). They have native cottages with plush mattresses and an on-site cafe that serves healthy breakfasts and farm-to-table meals. It’s pricier (mid-range) but very relaxing.
Kwartitos Villa (Cumalisquis). A popular family guesthouse surrounded by pine trees, Kwartitos has polished rooms, a nice infinity pool, and balconies with mountain or pool views. Amenities include linen service and air-conditioning; guests rave about the clean rooms and gardens.
Jomax Peak Glamping (Purok Gata). About 10 minutes south of town, Jomax Peak is a flower farm and glamping site. (They require advance booking.) You can stay in canvas “huts” or on the lawn under tents, and days include unlimited brewed local coffee with your stay. Jomax is great if you want camping-style adventure with some creature comforts (and a coffee fix).
(If you’re really pinching pennies, some travelers opt to camp at Malatan-og’s own campsite. An off-grid campsite is near the falls, but you must bring your own tent and sleeping gear. The camp has only a nipa hut and latrine, and charges about ₱300–₱600 per night (guide usually required). This is very basic – more like roughing it – but falling asleep to the sounds of the falls is an experience.)
Dining and Cafés
When hunger strikes in DSB, you’ll find surprisingly good options:
Kusinata (main highway, Guada). A spacious restaurant with glass walls overlooking the pine-clad valley, Kusinata is known for creative dishes made from local ingredients. (Try their native coffee and fusion meals.) The viewing deck is a popular spot for lunch or merienda, as you can actually see Malatan-og Falls in the distance.
Cafe La Guada (see above). Aside from lodging, La Guada’s menu features classic Filipino fare – think native tinola, grilled eels, even frog legs – at wallet-friendly prices. This is a good choice if you want hearty, authentic mountain food without tourist prices.
Kurvada Cafe (Brgy. Guada, near Kusinata). A small café with big windows, Kurvada is perfect for coffee or breakfast. Pull up a stool to the window and you’ll get a spectacular view of the mountainside and Malatan-og Falls far below. They serve silog breakfast meals, native eel dishes, and baked goods – try their specialty “linabug” (freshwater eel) if you’re adventurous. Kurvada is open early (around 6AM) and closes by evening, so it’s great for morning treats.
Other: There are a few more roadside eateries and view cafés popping up, like Terraza Cafe (brgy. Kumaliskis, good for coffee and pizza with a sunset view) or local karinderyas (small eateries) selling pancit and chicken inasal. If you stay at La Guada or Rapha Valley, you can also eat on-site.
Nearby Attractions
While Malatan-og Falls might be the highlight, Don Salvador Benedicto has several other attractions worth a stop:
Jomax Peak (Camping & Café) – As mentioned above, this pine-shaded flower park is both a glamping spot and a tourist attraction in its own right. You don’t have to stay overnight to enjoy it: reserve a day tour to sip coffee in a garden pavilion, wander among flowers, and soak in 360° mountain views.
Maglahos River Tunnel – A short hike and river crossing from the falls road takes you to this natural limestone tunnel carved by the Maglahos River. You’ll trek about 15–20 minutes (ankle-deep wading through clear water) to reach a dim tunnel and cave chamber – very cool for photos.
Lions Park Viewing Deck – Near the DSB municipal hall, this covered wooden deck (built by the local Lions Club) offers panoramic views of the highlands. It’s a quick stop (no entrance fee) for Instagram shots of the town below and distant mountains.
Campuestohan Highland Resort – About 40–50 km southwest near Murcia, this family-friendly water park has pools and hillside obstacle courses. It’s mentioned by many (and rated on travel sites) as a popular destination. If you have kids or want a change of pace (swimming and lazy river), Campuestohan is an option (note: it gets crowded on weekends and charges a day-use fee).
Pinewood Forest & Mount Kanlaon – Don’t forget to simply enjoy the mountain roads. The stretch between Bacolod and DSB cuts through vast pine forests (thus the “Little Baguio” name). On a clear day, you can even see the silhouette of Mount Kanlaon (Negros’s active volcano) from higher vantage points. Any overlook along the DSB road is worth a photo stop, especially at sunrise or late afternoon.
(For even more nature and culture, explore the nearby town of Murcia or take a quick drive to San Carlos City. But those are outside DSB proper.)
Sample Itineraries
Day Trip (from Bacolod):
- Depart early (~5–6AM) by private car or van. Drive the scenic route to DSB (stop at a hillside cafe for coffee if you like).
- Arrive around 8–9AM at the Malatan-og Viewing Deck. Hike down (about 40–60 minutes) to the base of the falls. Swim and relax for 1–2 hours.
- Around 11AM, hike back up (allow about 1–1.5 hours, guide recommended).
- Stop for lunch at Kusinata or Cafe La Guada. Leave DSB by early afternoon to be back in Bacolod by evening. (Alternate: combine with a quick stop at Jomax Peak for coffee, or at the Lions Park deck for a view.)
Overnight Adventure:
- Head up to DSB by late afternoon and set up camp near the falls (or check into Rapha Valley or Bello Vue).
- Enjoy dinner of grilled fish or veggies (either DIY at camp or eat at a local cafe).
- Fall asleep to the sound of the night forest and the cascade.
- Next morning, hike the trail to Malatan-og Falls (the cool air makes the trek even better before the sun gets high).
- Spend morning swimming or exploring the Maglahos Tunnel nearby.
- After lunch, pack up and continue your journey: you could then visit Jomax Peak or Lions Park in the afternoon before heading home.
Practical Tips
Fees & Permits: There’s a small registration/donation of around ₱20 per person at the falls Viewing Deck, plus an environmental fee of ₱50 if you hike to the basin. Public tours or guides are optional but recommended: a local guide costs about ₱300 per group (up to 6 people). Many hikers take a guide for safety on the steep trail. Bus fare from Bacolod or San Carlos is roughly ₱200+ one-way.
What to Bring: Wear sturdy, grippy shoes (the trail is very steep and can be slippery, especially after rain). Bring lots of water, snacks or lunch (there are no shops on the trail). A change of clothes and towel are a must if you plan to swim. Sunscreen and insect repellent are advisable (though the forest is shady). If you camp, bring your own tent and gear; the official campsite is very basic (a nipa hut and pit toilet).
Best Time to Visit: Any time of year is possible, since the falls are open daily. However, the trail is much more pleasant in the dry season (November–April). Avoid very heavy rains (trail gets muddy and flash flooding is a risk). Weekdays and mornings are quieter; on weekends or holidays the falls can get busy with local families.
Safety & Environment: Always follow any posted guidelines. The current is strong at the pool – swim near the edges if you’re not a strong swimmer. Keep an eye on children (monkeys are curious but usually harmless). Take all trash out with you; there is no garbage service at the falls. Cell phone signal is spotty or nonexistent once you leave the main road, so plan accordingly.
With a bit of planning, a trip to Malatan-og Falls is an unforgettable mountain adventure. The combination of cool forest, rushing water, and a hint of wilderness (monkeys and all) makes it a favorite for local travelers. Lace up your hiking shoes, pack your sense of adventure – and experience the “Cigarette” Falls in all its glory!
Ilonggo Traveler 
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